In the Pacific Mall food court in Markham, a place with Japanese, Korean, Vietnamese and Chinese restaurants, all making a constant, loud din as they satisfy hungry customers, one stands out for the noise that emanates from its chef.

The cook, Ken Sun, is a quiet man who doesn't speak much English, but come here in the moments before the lunch-time crowd, and you can hear him making a racket. "Whack, snap, whack," the jarring sound shakes the table that he's hitting. It's the noise of the wheat dough smacking against Stainless steel, fingers and apron covered in flour, carrying on a tradition from his hometown of Kaifeng, in Henan province, eastern Central China.

That Mr. Sun should be thwacking here, in North American's largest Asian mall is hardly surprising. Markham was the first town in Canada where visible minorities became the majority, and this was the area's first Asian mall. Walk around, from the Lilliputian shoe shops to those selling sorbet and yoghurt sundaes, from the foreign film selection to the endless stalls serving freshly baked waffles, and it becomes clear why there's usually a long-line up for vendors seeking store space. This place is designed for new immigrants to get a toehold into the world of Canadian retail and the size of the stores makes a big difference. Unlike conventional shopping centres, Pacific Mall has cubical-like units, starting at a standard 145 square feet, with stores comprised of one or more units. The smaller cubicals have an Asian feel, but more importantly they are manageable by those who want to sell something authentic, without taking on an unwieldy space.

It was part of Mr. Sun's choice, for the Pacific Mall location allowed him to make dishes that wouldn't fly elsewhere. Green onion pancakes, beef tripe, stir-fry pig's stomach [sic], much of the menu wasn't possible before he and Amy Sun, his wife and business partner, relocated here.

Those dishes might sound a little tame compared to the more adventurous gastronomic offerings available in Spadina's downtown chinatown, but the cuisine has allowed the couple to stay close to their roots. In their previous restaurant, also called Sun's Kitchen but located in Barrie, they changed their menu to offer more Westernized food.

Fortune cookies (which are likely an immigrant adaptation of the traditional Japanese cracker), chicken balls, and chop suey (which is far more common in the west than in China) were added to the menu. Ken's beloved fresh noodles weren't considered, as they knew their cliental wouldn't like them, Amy explains.  "You have to adjust your menu and make things that are not really Chinese at all."

Authenticity has clearly served the Suns well -- radio host Matt Galloway, rated Sun's Kitchen the best noodles in the city and food columnist and author James Chatto also gave them a top score. The Toronto Sun raved about their "delicate, ginger infused dumplings," which "alone is worth the drive."

Mr. Sun learned the art of hand-pulled noodles from a small noodle shop in Kaifeng that served lunchtime and supper crowds, where three other people worked. In 2000, he moved to Toronto where he met Amy. The couple both loved the city, but in 2002, they decided to move to Barrie to open their first Chinese restaurant in a smaller, less competitive environment. Although business was "pretty good" says Amy, the Suns shut their Barrie restaurant in 2005, eager to return to the city.

It can take years to learn how to fully master the art of hand-pulled noodles. The dough must be pulled and thwacked, which turns the wheat flour into gluten, a protein mesh that gives the dough its cohesiveness. The dough is stretched and flipped like a skipping rope, and as the consistency changes, it starts to thin and separate into smaller noodle-like strands.

Noodle recipes can help decide the reputation of the chef, and are often closely guarded, and Ken is no different, refusing to name any ingredient other than wheat flour and water. Although he won't release his recipe to a journalist, Ken gives back to the community by teaching employees how to make his legendary noodles. Working with Ken, though, isn't for slackers -- he's a demanding teacher, explains Mike Gu, 26, who has been learning from Ken for the past five months and who'd like to open his own restaurant one day. "Ken's a machine. He doesn't say much, so when he gives some encouragement, you know you've done really well."

The no-nonsense, hard-work ethic is the reason why the Suns have established their noodle and pancake reputation throughout the city, Amy says. Employees are encouraged to wear a  "No Pain, No Gain. Work Hard at Sun's Kitchen" T-shirt, the restaurant's official uniform, and Amy's design.  Staff are expected to work 10-hour days, including weekends, she says. The demanding schedule and long hours are necessary to serve ultra fresh dishes from morning to night (opening hours are from 11 am - 8 pm).  "There's always a long line, especially on Saturday, Sunday, holidays," explains Asgar Ali, who has worked as support staff at the Pacific Mall since 2000, and helps keep the food court tidy. "They are always busy. Everybody goes there for a rush."

Alexandra Shimo is an author and journalist based on the Ossington strip. She has lived in several cities, including London, New York and  Washington D.C. and is now proud to call the T-dot her home.